The art of telling a fine and memorable story has to do with description. I’ve always been drawn to fairy tales and legends, myself. No one can spin a tale like the Irish, from the antics of the wee folk to the mystery of the Loch Ness monster to the ballads of Bono or the humility of the human spirit told by John Steinbeck. Sláinte!!!
This passage fro Cannery Row totally inspired me:
“While Doc ate his sandwich and sipped his beer, a bit of conversation came back to him. Blaisedell, the poet, had said to him, “You love beer so much. I’ll bet some day you’ll go in and order a beer milk shake.“ (John Steinbeck’s Cannery Row, Chapter 17.)
So I thought, well, why not beer and chocolate? And not just any beer. The beer would have to have it’s own deep, dark personality. And should be something classic like Steinbeck and hail his German-Irish heritage. Hmmm. Dark beer, Irish. Voila! GUINNESS.
"Chocolate stout" is a name brewers sometimes give to certain stouts having a noticeable dark chocolate flavour through the use of darker, more aromatic malt; particularly chocolate malt — a malt that has been roasted or kilned until it acquires a chocolate colour."
Yummmy.
And I have to tip my derby to the genius of marketing that Guinness has cleverly and consistently touted over the years. I love this poster from the late 50's, for it's elegant design and bright colors AND it's spokeswoman, but also because it was drawn by a woman artist. More captivating examples can be found at the Guinness site. Guinness Stout
Just in case you’re in the mood for something a little different for a St. Paddy’s celebration, try this Irish take on Rarebit. Totally decadent!
Irish Rarebit
2 tbsps butter
2 tbsps flour
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp honey
1/2 c. milk
1/2 c. Guinnesss
1 c. Cheddar cheese, grated
Salt and pepper
Melt the butter in a heavy pan, and stir in flour to make a roux. Cook on a low heat for a further minute without allowing it to brown. Remove pan from heat and gradually beat the milk into the roux. Return to heat and stir until the mixture thickens. Stir in mustard and honey and finally the Guinness. Cook this mixture fairly rapidly for 2-3 minutes then add grated cheese and stir over very low heat only until all the cheese has melted. Spread thickly on four slices of toast and brown under the grill.
Oh - and while I"m at it, a little “rare bit” (get it!) about St. Patrick. The reason the shamrock is associate with St. Patrick’s Day has nothing to do with leprechauns. Shamrocks are plentiful meadow growers in Ireland, and St. Patrick used to pluck one from the fields as he roamed the countryside on behalf of the papal doctrine to illustrate the Holy Trinity. Now that’s powerful story telling.
Valentine’s Day is fast approaching and romance is in the air. Ahhhhh. I’m asked quite often to recommend wines that pair nicely with chocolate. Since wine + chocolate + romance = FUN in my book, I’m submitting this article from “The New York Times” with a little help from “The Wine Spectator”. Truffle photography courtesy of Ellen Silverman/Marilyn Cadenbach. Make sure you check out the truffle options along with all my other Valentine Day specialties in the e-boutique! dianaphillipschocolates.com/eboutiqueValentine Chocolates
The Chocolate Equation
A rich dessert, such as homemade truffles, with one of these eight luscious sweet wines is a surefire way to make a match on Valentine’s Day
Dana Nigro
Posted: February 11, 2009
Why fight it? Nothing says Valentine’s Day like chocolate. And with so many boutique producers delivering higher quality and more diversity than ever before, you can come up with a unique choice that offers all the personality of the one you love, whether you serve truffles, or give a gift of specialty chocolates, from single-origin varietals, to chocolates flavored with fruit, spices, sea salt or even cheese or bacon.
Furthermore, you don’t have to forego wine because you’re having something sweet. Just serve the dry Champagne earlier in the meal and, to cap it off, turn to one of the world’s renowned sweet wines, whose flavors parallel those in fine chocolates.
To help you narrow down your options, we’ve gathered the expertise of Wine Spectator editors and contributors.
Buying Chocolates as a Gift
Rather than be indecisive with a mixed assortment, find out your sweetheart’s taste preferences, so you can really make a strong impression. In essence, chocolate lovers fall into three families:
those who go for nuts, those who love fruit (think chocolate-covered strawberries) and those who are chocolate purists, according to features editor Owen Dugan. For the latter, he says, skip the pure high-quality chocolate bars on this romantic day and opt for truffles, with their more seductive texture. As an added bonus, these not-too-sweet confections are excellent matches for sweet wines and after-dinner spirits and liqueurs.
Pairing Wine and Chocolate
Chocolates and chocolate-based desserts can be an exquisite match with wines, if you follow this guideline: Choose a wine that’s sweeter than the dessert so the wine won’t taste bitter or thin.
Harvey Steiman, who once spent an entire day trying chocolate and wine combinations in the name of research, says his favorite matches—and the most versatile—are rich, fortified wines such as sweet Sherries and Australian Muscats and Muscadelles (formerly called Tokays) that are made via the solera system of blending older and younger wines. These wines have a nutty character that mingles well with chocolate.
Also look for other fortified sweet wines that echo the flavors in the dessert, such as tawny Ports, with their nut and spice flavors, and Banyuls (made from Grenache) from France, which typically offer raspberry, cherry, plum, dried fruit and even chocolate notes. Vin Santo, an Italian wine made from dried grapes, also may proffer a profile of nuts, caramel, toffee, honey, brown sugar, spice or dried fruits.
For a different take, try light, fizzy wines and sweet rosés with bright fruit flavors, suggests Steiman. The low-alcohol Brachetto from Northern Italy makes a nice choice for Valentine’s Day with its rose-petal aromas and strawberry flavors that pair well with chocolate-covered fruit. If the dessert focuses more on fruit than chocolate, sweet wines from white varieties, such as Sauternes and late-harvest Rieslings, are good options.
If you’re not a fan of sweet wines, dry red wines can pair wonderfully with not-too-sweet chocolate desserts. Steiman recommends a youthful, fruity wine with plenty of berry, cherry or currant flavors, such as Zinfandels and young Syrahs, to create a match that evokes chocolate-covered cherries or fruit cream-filled chocolates. Very high-quality chocolate contains little sugar, needing just enough sweetness to balance the bitterness of the chocolate. While bittersweet chocolate can amplify the fruit flavors of a young red, sweeter chocolates will cut the richness, so look for one with at least 60 percent cacao and no more than 12 grams of sugar per serving.
For more explanation on how to achieve the perfect pairing, read Harvey Steiman’s column, Chocolate and Wine in the Jan. 31-Feb. 28, 2009, issue of Wine Spectator, watch his video or read his blog.
Recommended Sweet Wine Matches for Chocolate
ISOLE E OLENA Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2000 Score: 92 | $45 / 375ml
Full and sweet, with orange peel, fresh herb and caramel character. This has a pleasant tangy finish, leaving a hint of salt behind.
There’s an intense dried apricot character. Long and beautiful. Drink now. 800 cases made.—J.S.
MADEIRA WINE COMPANY Madeira Miles Finest Rainwater Medium Dry NV Score: 90 | $15
Filled with fresh orange peel, white pepper and apricot flavors, this is very rich. Finishes with white chocolate and caramel.
Drink now through 2020. 600 cases imported. —K.M.
RENWOOD Zinfandel Amador County Amador Ice 2006 Score: 89 | $35 / 375ml
Rich, with toasted almond, apricot preserves, honey, citrus peel and tobacco notes that are unctuous and sweet, but with acidity in the
backbone that keeps it light on its feet and not cloying. Drink now through 2014. 850 cases made. —M.W.
CAVE DE RASTEAU Rasteau Signature 2006 Score: 87 | $33
Ripe, with dark plum, fruitcake and blueberry cobbler notes followed by a sweet, slightly raisined finish that stays fresh enough.
Drink now. 2,000 cases made. —J.M.
BODEGAS DIOS BACO Cream Jerez NV Score: 86 | $20
Sweet and full-bodied, with caramel, molasses and prune notes. Balanced and approachable.
Shows a touch of heat on the finish. Drink now. 6,000 cases made. —B.S.
GIACOMO BOLOGNA Brachetto d’Acqui 2007 Score: 85 | $24
Shows strawberry jam on the nose, with hints of lemon. Soft and creamy for a sparkling wine. Medium sweet, with lots of fruit.
But not overdone. A nice aperitif. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.
We had a blast working on a custom chocolate gift box order from Mary Pinizzotto and Mark Gardiner last week. Each of the 6 boxes was a gracious “Thank You” to those involved in the $120K sale of comedian Jay Leno’s custom Yamaha Star VMax with all the proceeds going to Bailey’s Cafe, a community arts program in New York. The recipients included Jay Leno, Jay’s garage staff, Yamaha’s Bob Star, Bailey’s Cafe’s founder Stefanie Siegel and others.
Going with the mechanic theme, we concepted the idea of a “chocolate tool box”. We customized the interior of each metal tool box with a faux black diamond plate lining and an engraved steel plate with a personalized sentiment to the recipient. The macho chocolate flavors chosen for the guys included Chipotle Espresso and The Steinbeck (infused with Guinness Extra Stout). Each chocolate was hand painted with an edible silver metallic finish to create the look of a chrome tool.
We hope the guys enjoyed them. They were quite a departure from the custom wedding favor chocolate boxes we’ve been doing all summer, but just as exciting!
Fall is ruffling the fur on the rabbits in my front yard. The clouds seem to be hugging the earth a little tighter, and is it my imagination, or are the sunsets more russet? This is undoubtedly my favorite time of year. Even in temperate California, my Midwestern genes have adapted to the subtle changes and anticipate the shift. It’s chili weather! Next to Thanksgiving and all the heady aromas of roasted turkey, sage and freshly baking bread, chili says “home” to me more than any other food.
In Missouri, chili was our reward for a day of raking leaves. The raking was a reward in itself, mounding hundreds and hundreds of leaves, hurling ourselves skyward, screaming “Geronimo!“, dropping into our earthy cushions, catching our breath and repeating the whole process again and again and again. With red noses and leaves in our hair, we’d walk into the instant warmth of the house, inhaling the unmistakable aroma of chili.
I’ve been making chili ever since. The recipe has evolved year after year and has been influenced by many experiences. The current edition favors inspiration from Oaxacan moles and features both COCOA POWDER and DARK CHOCOLATE. What else?
CHOCOLATE CHILI
5 dried ancho chiles
1 cinnamon stick
1 medium onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic sliced
1 lb. tomatoes or 1 large can tomatoes
2 poblano chiles
1/2 can chipotle chiles in adobo
4 cups broth
2 TSP Dried oregano
3 TBSP cumin
2 bay leaves
2 TBSP balsamic vinegar
2 heaping TBSP good cocoa powder
1 TBSP grated orange zest
3 oz. dark chocolate (64 -70%)
4 oz. good Tequila
Canola Oil
Salt
Pepper
1 LB coarsely ground pork
1 LB coarsely ground chicken, dark meat
Soak the chiles and the cinnamon stick in hot water until the chiles are soft. Remove the cinnamon and puree the chiles, then strain to remove the tough skins.
Rub the tomatoes with a little canola oil and then put under the broiler until the skins blacken. Let them cool and then pulse in a food processor - skins and all. Add the chipotle in adobo. Then run through a food mill or a strainer to remove the skin. If you’re using canned tomatoes, skip the oiling, but do the roasting.
In a large heavy bottomed pot, add the garlic to cold oil. Put on low heat for about 5 minutes. The idea is not to brown the garlic, but to let it infuse the oil. Remove from the heat and let sit for a few minutes while you prepare the poblanos.
Rub the poblanos with a little canola oil and broil until the skin blackens. Carefully drop them into a bag or a bowl and cover with plastic wrap to let them steam for about 10 minutes. When they’re cool, slip the skins off and dice.
Return the pot with the infused oil to the stove and heat. Once the oil is hot, add the onions and the spices. By adding the spices now, the heat will intensify the inherent aroma of the spices. Sauté for a couple of minutes, and reduce the heat to sweat the onions. Season with salt and pepper.
Add the meat and brown over medium heat. When the meat is browned, remove from the pot and deglaze with 3oz tequila. Drink the other ounce. (If you don’t want to use tequila, you can use a nice stout beer, or broth or even water.) Stir vigorously to loosen the crunchy goodness on the bottom of the pan, then add the meat back in. Sprinkle the cocoa powder and orange zest over the meat and incorporate. Add the broth, the anchos, poblanos, and pureed tomatoes. Shave the dark chocolate over the top. Stir to mix all the ingredients.
Simmer for at least an hour. Check the seasoning. You’ll need to add some more salt.
The longer you let this simmer, the better it gets. Warm beans in another pot. Preheat the oven. Make your favorite corn bread, crank up Mariachi Vasquez and cozy up to a wonderful bowl of of Fall.
This Saturday I’ll be at Arroyo Trabuco Golf Club for this inspirational exhibit for brides to be.
Everything to make your wedding day blissful and memorable. I’ll have some unique wedding molds for chocolates, new packaging for wedding gifts and favors, and chocolate tastings. Don’t miss this chance to discover the artisan take on weddings and wedding chocolate!
I thought I’d share a fabulous project we just completed for LA television wardrobe stylist Stacy Quackenbush. Stacy commissioned us to create one-of-a-kind chocolate gift boxes for 4 of her favorite fashion designers- Louis Verdad, Lloyd Klein, Yotam Solomon, and Linda Loudermilk.
We concepted, designed and hand constructed the boxes, personalizing each with a collage of that designer’s fashion. Taking cues from the clothing theme, labeling was sewn into place with a contrasting zigzag stitch. Of course the boxes were then filled with my chocolates of shapes, flavors, and hand painted finishes chosen just for them- Chipotle Espresso, Lemon Thyme, Anastasia Tea, Sea Salt Caramel, and French Lavender.
The designers clothed actress Dawn Olivieri, the newest “Heroes” television series character Lydia for a photo shoot with photographer August Bradley. We loved working with Stacy and totally dug the project. Apparently the designers dug the gifts as well!
I’ve always been a fan of John Steinbeck. I was captivated by the poetic despair of “The Grapes of Wrath” the first time I read it in Mrs. Loedequist’s 3rd hour English class and have since read every single title he authored.
Living in California and visiting some of the settings of his work has made his depictions all the more dimensional. Salinas and the Central Valley still maintain aspects found in “Of Mice and Men” and “East of Eden”. Even though Cannery Row no longer functions as a working cannery, smelling the sea and hearing the gulls is a good backdrop for re-reading about Doc and the boys.
I’m always looking for inspiration for new flavors and this quote from “Cannery Row” got me thinking:
While Doc ate his sandwich and sipped his beer, a bit of conversation came back to him. Blaisedell, the poet, had said to him, “You love beer so much. I’ll bet some day you’ll go
in and order a beer milk shake.”
John Steinbeck’s Cannery Row, Chapter 17
Eventually the character does just that, orders a milk shake on a trip to the Sea of Cortez. If beer can accompany ice cream, why not pair chocolate with a nice chocolatey stout, like Guinness? Voila. In honor of John Steinbeck and the indelible characters of “Cannery Row” I introduce The Steinbeck, a collaboration of Gunniess, 64% dark chocolate with a frothy cap of white chocolate, just in time for Father’s Day.
My mother, Bonnie Rose, has a drawer full of keepsakes whose value would be lost on anyone other than her. Construction paper cards with pictures and glitter carefully glued with white paste. Potholders strung together at a Brownie meeting, much too precious to actually use. A handkerchief embroidered with rough satin-stitched initials. Buttons strung together to fashion the perfect neckline accessory.
In honor of all the hand-made treasures collected by mothers everywhere, my Mother’s Day Collection is hand-crafted from the heart. Watermelon and Basil inspired by one of my mom’s favorite salads. Tangy kumquats in another ganache based on those little orange gems we would pop into our mouths like candy.
Please enjoy. And call your mom just because you can.
This tomato variety is Cherokee Chocolate and has developed a great following because of its exceptional rich flavor and the deep chocolate mahogany color. You can get seeds from http://www.tomatofest.com.
As a chocolatier, I’m always looking for inspiration for something exotic.
When Cal visited our local farmer’s market and came home with these gorgeous chocolate hued tomatoes, I couldn’t look at them without thinking of mole. In Mexico, mole, (pronounced MOH-lay), which comes from the Aztec word molli, meaning concoction or stew, is believed to have been created in the late 1600s by a nun in a convent in Puebla de los Angeles, outside Mexico City, to honor the archbishop for building a nearby convent. According to food historians, she spared no expense, using the best and most expensive ingredients to create the dark, savory sauce that is now considered to be one o f the great classic sauces of the world.
CHEROKEE CHOCOLATE MOLE
This sauce can be served over roast pork, chicken, and is especially sumptuous over roasted potatoes.
NOTE: The chocolate to use should be bittersweet not unsweetened. The recipe doesn’t take alot, so get REALLY good chocolate. 64 -70%.
5 Guajillo chiles
10 red Ancho chiles
1 tbsp sesame seeds
2 slices of bread
1 stick of cinnamon
1 tbsp each: thyme, majoram, oregano
4 oz. good dark chocolate, cut into small pieces
4 tbsp lard (REALLY!) If you must, use canola oil.
10 almonds
10 raisins
3 cloves of garlic
1/2 medium onion
3 medium Cherokee Chocolate tomatoes (or any flavorful ripe tomato)
2 cups of chicken broth
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 tbsp salt
Heat the oven to 400.
1. Wash the chiles with a damp cloth, remove the stems of the chiles, slit open with a knife and remove the seeds and veins. Toast the chiles on both sides in large frying pan over high heat, making sure that they do not burn, but you want them to blacken a bit.
2. Soak the chiles in boiling water to soften them for about 10 min. Meanwhile, fry the almonds in the lard at medium heat for 5 min., or until they are a golden color.
3. Take them out and set aside.
4. Next fry the raisins until they puff up and the skin browns a bit, then remove and strain in a sieve. Turn the heat down a bit, and fry the sesame seeds in the same oil, adding salt to prevent them from jumping from pan.
5. Once golden, remove and store on an absorbent paper towel. Still in the same oil, fry the slices of bread, until they are golden. Remove and put on an absorbent paper towel.
6. In a baking pan, roast the garlic, onion and tomato int he hot oeven until they are nicely toasted with black spots, about 10 minutes.
7. In a blender, grind the chiles with a half cup of water. Once the mixture is smooth, pour into a saucepan and fry with one tbsp of the lard for 10 min. on medium heat. Stirring occasionally to ensure that it does not stick to the pan.
8. Next, blend both the roasted and fried ingredients together, until smooth. Blend the tomatoes and strain through a colander and add into the chile mixture. Cook for 5 more minutes. Add the chicken broth, salt, sugar and chocolate. Simmer for 15 min. on medium heat, stirring occasionally until rich and fragrant.
9. Place meat or vegetables on a heavy plate and pour sauce over the top. Garnish if you like.
Parmigiani Fleurier, (www.parmigiani.com), a leading luxury Swiss watchmaker known worldwide as a master of fine, handcrafted timepieces, celebrated its ongoing partnership with Sony Pictures Classics by hosting an exclusive dinner in honor of their five Oscar nominees. Attending the festivities were the honorees, including Best Supporting Actress nominee Melissa Leo for “Frozen River”.
I was asked by Parmigiani US executives Michelle Zegna and Denise Campanelli to design a dessert box for the occasion. All dark chocolates, gilded with either gold lustre or edible gold leaf, packaged in a linen embossed box. I’d like to thank….
What better place to gather to fund raise for the Palm Springs Preservation Foundation? The theme was classic mid-century (of course) with a an aqua/blue/silver color scheme inspired the the painter’s palette pool. I served Hawaiian sea salt caramels in silver and blue dark chocolate shells, a nice foil for those Twin Palms martinis.
“Dear Diana,
On behalf of the Palm Springs Preservation Foundation Board of Directors: Tracy Conrad, Stewart Weiner, “Kip” Serafin, Gary Johns, Patrick McGrew and Dog Hudson, we would like to express our sincere appreciation to you for providing the chocolates for our Retro Martini Fundraiser ath the Twin Palms Estate. As you know this year’s event was a ‘re-branding” of our traditional party into a smaller, more sophisticated affair.
Both during and after our event, we received overwhelming compliments about your chocolates. Our guests thought the party a quintissential 1950’s Palm SPrings cocktail party and your chocolates helped make the even extra special.
Sincerely,
Ron Marshall. President”
Designed in 1947 by Stewart Williams for Frank Sinatra and his first wife, Nancy Barbato, Twin Palms is a spectacular example of mid-century contemporary architecture in the heart of Palm Springs’ Movie Colony community. Located just around the corner from residences once owned by Al Jolson, Jack Benny and Cary Grant, this estate boasts both luxury and historical significance.
If these walls could talk… indeed, the 4,500 square foot home was host to some of the valley’s most glamorous parties with Hollywood’s brightest stars, including Bob Hope, Joan Crawford, Phil Silvers, Mary Livingston, George Burns, Gracie Allen, and even the reclusive Greta Garbo. The home was also witness to some of Sinatra’s most memorable bouts. One of the most outrageous was when Frank threw then-wife Ava Gardner’s possessions onto the driveway after she appeared at the house in an attempt to catch him with Lana Turner. You can still see the chip in the sink where Frank through a bottle in a rage.
Before I carry on discussing other additives, perhaps a bit more information about the powerful properties of CHOCOLATE would be in order. Chocolate was originally found in the rain forests of Central and South America. The Mayan civilizations worshiped the Cacao tree and called it “food of the gods.“ Rumor has it that the Aztec ruler Montezuma drank 50 goblets of chocolate each day to enhance his sexual abilities.
Putting rumors aside for the moment, there are some realities that exist. Researchers have studied chocolate and found it to contain phenylethylamine and serotonin, which are both “feel good” chemicals. They occur naturally in our bodies and are released by our brains when we are happy or feeling loving or passionate. It produces a euphoric feeling, like when you’re in love.
In addition to those two chemicals, researchers at the Neuroscience Institute in San Diego, California, say that chocolate may also contain substances that have the same effect on the brain as marijuana. The substance is a neurotransmitter called anandamide. The amount of anandamide in chocolate is not enough to get a person “high” like marijuana, but it could be enough to contribute to the good feelings that serotonin and phenylethylamine produce.
Does that mean it increases sexual desire? Montezuma would say yes. I suggest you find out for yourself.
Valentine’s Day is coming up so check the e-boutique for some aphrodisiacs. Aphrodisiacs and chocolate? That’s a love potion perfect for any gift.
Chilis certainly spice up the palate, but can also add some heat in the boudoir. Officially capsicum, also known as the pepper family. Chipotle plays a very large role in blood circulation. When chilis are ingested, blood vessels dilate. This allows increased blood flow throughout the body, especially in the major organs. Males tend to benefit greatly. It’s a widely held belief that chilis can lead to more intense…ahem…fun.
